There has never been a better time to get to know Champagne Devaux, because Michel Parisot was named'Sparkling Winemaker of the Year'at the 2020 International Wine Challenge. And Cuvée D is a wonderful way to get acquainted… This spectacular Champagne was matured on the lees for more than 60 months, here it's worth noting that the legal minimum is just 15 months. The cuvée was crafted using 40% reserve wines, most of which are aged in oak, but a quarter is drawn from perpetual soleras (a system also used by the likes of Louis Roederer, Bérêche&Fils and Jacques Selosse) that contain wines dating back to 1995. Those winemaking efforts are what ledÉric Lebel, the former Chef de Cave and Deputy Director at Krug, to once refer to Devaux as"the Krug of the Côte des Bar."And that demonstrates just what high esteem this house is held in. Sip this vegan-friendly and sustainable fizz and you'll discover that it's surprisingly fresh for something aged for five years and with so much oak. Lively acidity is joined by orchard blossom, dried fruits, sophisticated spices, mandarin, toasted brioche, lemon sorbet, wood, cream, Abernethy biscuits and an intriguing umami note, almost like roasted mushroom. Cuvée D Brut is sensational on many levels, but particularly when you consider its price and the effort that has gone into it. Could this be your new favourite Champagne house? Devaux, founded by brothers Jules and August Devaux and now owned by the Union Auboise cooperative, is a specialist in PinotNoir. Located nearer to Chablis than Reims or Épernay, their grapes are grown on Kimmeridgian marl and Portlandian limestone, making them quite unique.£7.2 per 100.00ml